The Festival

The Jaipur Literature Festival (JLF) is hailed worldwide as the “greatest literary show on Earth.” The third edition of JLF North Carolina celebrated the art and history across the City of Oaks, with specific sessions showcasing the talent of Wilson students. The project was in collaboration with JLF where speakers, artists, workshops and more are happening all weekend. The lineup assembled each year has been built through partnerships with bookstores, universities, individual sponsors, arts organizations and foundations.

Throughout the weekend, textile design student Kylie Hansell, and Ph.D. student in textile technology management Yulan Liu worked together on the installation of two draping saris at separate locations, with the creation process beginning over the summer. Though the original festival happens in the historic Pink City of Jaipur in India’s vibrant state of Rajasthan, bringing the event around the world reaffirms the power of new ideas and cultural experiences. 

Sejal Mehta, the founding festival director of JLF North Carolina, is an attorney by training and longtime civic leader in the arts. Mehta also chairs the North Carolina Arts Council and has led the festival from concept to reality. The sari exhibit was spearheaded by Mehta to connect the festival’s literary programming to the state’s design and textile talent. Under Mehta’s direction, JLF NC brings a global literary tradition to the Triangle and shows how the arts can connect North Carolina’s communities with the wider world.

The Project

Hansell and Liu first heard about the project through Associate Professor Kate Nartker. JLP was looking to feature the work of textile design students in the college, and the creative challenge was something the students welcomed. 

 “We have been doing a lot of making and testing. We tried different ways to drape the saris, attach them to the structures, and figure out what actually works in real life,” said Liu. 

Using the materials of 33 recycled saris that were donated to JLP, Hansell and Liu got to work trying several different draping and stylistic choices to see what would be the most effective. “We took kind of an unorthodox approach. The stand of our base is an umbrella that we lengthened from the bottom, just so we could use it as a centerpiece,” said Hansell.  

Through the summer, the designs came to life with various prototypes and structural techniques. “Early on, we had a lot of ideas and it was hard to know which direction to take. Kylie was actually the one who found the Pinterest image that helped us see the umbrella concept more clearly, and from there things started to click,” said Liu. 

The Process

The draping process involved making sure the two pieces looked cohesive, keeping in mind the fine line between the designs looking elegant and not messy, according to Hansell. 

Advisors and collaborators on the exhibit included artist Thomas Sayre, architect Will Alphin, artist Sampada Aggarwal and fashion designer Julie Patel of Jhulkee Fashion. Alphin and Patel are both also NC State alumni.

Hansell and Liu said one of the collaborations was the wooden stands used for their display that had the Indian alphabet engraved using a laser cutting process. 

The overall design of the saris was very important for Hansell and Liu, as they took into account the materials they were provided and how they separated each piece.

 “We wanted them to feel connected to the overall visual language of the festival without making the design too busy,” said Liu. 

Both Liu and Hansell praised the assistance and collaboration between each other, as well as Nartker and Professor Traci Lamar.

 “Dr. Lamar was part of the process from the beginning, so the project really grew through an ongoing back-and-forth between ideas, testing, feedback and making,” said Liu.

“I do not want the work Kate did in this project to go unnoticed. She was constantly checking in on us. She made sure we were confident in everything we were doing and planning for,” said Hansell. 

The saris created by Hansell and Liu will be moved to be on display at a Hindu Temple in Morrisville.