Wilson College of Textiles Professor is NC State’s Innovator of the Year

The story of this year’s winner of one of NC State University’s most prestigious awards begins 30 years ago and nearly 6,000 miles away in El-Mahalla El-Kubra, Egypt. 

Wilson College of Textiles Professor Ahmed El-Shafei, who had just earned his master’s degree and begun teaching at Mansoura University, was working on a research project about dye synthesis and dyeing. Due to limited resources, he had to make the trip to nearby Misr Spinning and Weaving Company, one of the world’s largest mills, to collect data. 

“It was during this journey that I saw for the first time isolated colored ponds polluted with a cocktail of dyes and auxiliaries scattered around the perimeter of the mill, contaminating the environment and imposing significant health hazards,” El-Shafei, 2024 NC State Innovator of the Year award winner, recalls. 

What he saw set the course for his career. 

“Witnessing this not only deeply saddened me,” he says, “but also ignited a passion within to reduce the impacts posed by the global textile industry and to create a safer environment for generations to come.” 

Over the course of his career, El-Shafei has accomplished just that, most notably with a revolutionary sustainable dyeing technology. The proprietary chemistry of this technology is the basis for El-Shafei’s new process for dyeing cellulosic fibers (such as cotton, viscose, lyocell and linen) that operates more efficiently and reduces the industry’s environmental footprint as it furnishes zero effluent discharge.

This groundbreaking invention played a large role in El-Shafei’s nomination for Innovator of the Year. Only one faculty member receives the honor each year. Chancellor Randy Woodson and a committee of prior winners select the winner based on criteria that includes patents, licenses, industry collaboration and impact. 

“I wholeheartedly believe that Dr. Ahmed El-Shafei stands out as one of the most innovative researchers I have had the privilege to work with at NC State,” Associate Dean for Research Xiangwu Zhang wrote in his letter of nomination for El-Shafei. 

Sustainable changes that make business sense

The invention has the potential to make such a large impact because it tackles one of the most environmentally damaging processes within a highly polluting industry. The textile industry is responsible for 20% of global pollution, according to the European Environment Agency. A large portion of that 20% results from dyeing or other “wet processes” such as applying finishes for water repellency or other attributes to a product. Just as El-Shafei witnessed firsthand in Egypt, 25-30% of the dye used in the process, along with other dyes and chemicals, ends up in rivers and streams. 

“This chemical discharge poses serious threats to human health, aquatic life, and the overall ecosystem, tarnishing our planet’s well-being,” Zhang explains. 

El-Shafei’s new dyeing process negates this impact, preventing 99.9% of the liquid waste produced by dyeing from making it into a body of water. It’s also good for business. 

Using the new technology, companies are able to use 80% less water and complete the process in a quarter of the time compared to traditional techniques. It also eliminates the need for antimicrobial finishes and meets existing industry performance standards. The innovation also aligns with a trend of consumers increasingly holding companies accountable for their impact on the environment. 

That combination of altruistic benefits and bottom line appeal is probably why industry giants have been so eager to partner with El-Shafei on this technology. With the help of the Office of Research Commercialization at NC State, El-Shafei has licensed his invention with OSM Shield and JB Martin using the names CLEAR and Oasis. These two partners are transitioning all 43 companies they work with to this new process. 

“Dr. El Shafei’s work has the potential to bring about a transformative shift in the textile industry,” JB Martin Vice President Tim Heller writes in his letter of recommendation. 

What’s next

Executives from both OSM Shield and JB Martin say their experience working with El-Shafei and the success of his technology is opening the door for more collaboration. 

“Many brands such as Ralph Lauren, PVH, and H&M have been following closely the progress we have made to date,” OSM Shield founder and CEO Mark Walker writes in his letter of recommendation. “Partner mills in China, India, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Turkey, Portugal, and Honduras have also been closely monitoring our success.” 

The possibilities aren’t limited to the textile industry. Specialty materials giant Eastman is partnering with NC State on a project with over $300,000 in funding to determine how El-Shafei’s discovery of a novel technology can be applied to improve one of the company’s commercial products. 

“Eastman has a long history of innovation with cellulose and its ester derivatives,” Dawn C. Mason, Eastman’s Director of Corporate Innovation Excellence, writes in her letter of recommendation. “This technology by Dr. El-Shafei is an outstanding example of the potential to continue innovating and affording revolutionary discoveries with this versatile and sustainable material.”

There’s still more work to be done, El-Shafei says. His next priority will be to expand the functionalities present within the technology and make the dyeing process even more cost-effective. 

“I really feel honored and privileged to receive this recognition,” El-Shafei says. “It immensely strengthens my commitment to sustainability and motivates me more to make further revolutionary impacts in the textile industry for a better tomorrow and a more environmentally responsible industry for many generations to come.”